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F.P.Journe Unveils the Chronomètre Furtif
03 Apr 2025 · 6 min read

Presented as part of the lineSport collection, the Chronomètre Furtif takes a different approach to visibility. It isn’t designed to stand out. Instead, it invites quiet attention — where technical execution, material choice, and dial finishing are all subdued by design.

The Chronomètre Furtif follows on from the 2024 “Only Watch” unique piece, carrying over its restrained palette and functional philosophy into a small production run. That watch used tantalum throughout; here, a similar visual language is translated through the use of tungsten carbide. The result is harder than steel, nearly as dense as gold, and extremely shock resistant — well-suited to a watch that prioritises permanence over flourish.

42MM Tungsten Carbide Case
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The 42mm case is crafted from tungsten carbide, paired with a tantalum bezel, crown, and caseback. The surfaces are sandblasted and polished to highlight contrast, and the case remains 9.5mm thick. The bracelet continues this logic — a three-link flat structure made entirely of tungsten carbide, finished with a folding titanium clasp capped in polished tantalum. All components are machined by Les Boîtiers de Genève, a specialist entity within F.P.Journe, using purpose-built tooling for the task.

Anthracite Grey Grand Feu Dial
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The dial is executed in mirror-polished anthracite grey Grand Feu enamel, fired on a white gold base. Numerals and minute tracks are laser-frosted for near-invisibility unless viewed at an angle. The hands — elongated, teardrop-shaped, and rhodium-plated — blend into the surface, with a slender white seconds hand providing the only clear point of contrast.

Calibre 1522
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At the core is the new manual-winding Calibre 1522, made from 18K rose gold. It features an in-line geartrain — a first for the manufacture — and central direct seconds. The movement includes a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and a moonphase at 6 o’clock, both visible through the sapphire caseback. It offers 56 hours of autonomy and operates at 3 Hz. The finishing is consistent with the maison’s standards: Côtes de Genève, polished bevels, and barleycorn decoration across the mainplate.

Tungsten Carbide Link Bracelet

The bracelet integrates fully with the case, continuing the same focus on material and surface. It is constructed from flat, three-row links made entirely of tungsten carbide — a material rarely used in bracelet construction due to its density, hardness, and the machining challenges it presents. Each link is sandblasted to match the case, with polished chamfers providing just enough contrast to define the structure. Despite the visual minimalism, the bracelet carries a distinct presence on the wrist. It is closed by a folding clasp in titanium, chosen for weight and resilience, and finished with a polished tantalum cap that mirrors the case elements. The result is not simply a bracelet that fits the watch — but one that completes it, materially and visually.

FINAL THOUGHTS
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The Chronomètre Furtif offers a different approach to watchmaking — one that places emphasis on material integrity, technical precision, and a quieter form of interaction. It’s built for long-term wear, with details that reveal themselves gradually. In a category often defined by visibility, it remains focused on the experience of the wearer.


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