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Watches & Wonders 2025: Bvlgari Redefines the Ultra-Thin and the Iconic
02 Apr 2025 · 7 min read

For its debut at Watches & Wonders Geneva, Bvlgari presents a study in duality—where Roman heritage meets contemporary watchmaking, and where elegance is not simply preserved but redefined. Within a space inspired by the architectural grandeur of the Eternal City, the Maison reveals two new creations that speak to its twin identities as a jeweller and watchmaker: the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and Serpenti Aeterna.


These novelties reflect more than mechanical excellence. They embody a design language shaped by clarity, finesse, and an enduring belief in innovation as a form of cultural expression. From the pursuit of record-breaking thinness to the reinterpretation of a longstanding icon, Bulgari continues to distil time into its most essential—and compelling—forms.

Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
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A close-up view reveals the architectural clarity and technical finesse of Bvlgari’s record-setting 1.85mm-thin tourbillon

With the introduction of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Bvlgari continues a decade-long exploration into form, function, and finesse. Measuring just 1.85mm thick, it becomes the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch ever created—achieving a level of mechanical complexity that transcends its dimensions.


This world record is more than a technical triumph. It is a tribute to the Maison’s architectural codes and its longstanding commitment to reductionism. The skeletonised design draws light across the movement, accentuating the decorative contrasts of polished slopes, rhodium-plated components, and sunburst finishes. Every visible element is refined with a purpose: to elevate the technical into the aesthetic.

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A monochrome canvas of micro-engineering—precision, pared back to its essentials
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Less than two millimetres of form, decades of innovation in function

At its heart lies the manually wound BVF 900 calibre, operating at 4 Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. Key elements—such as the dual crown system, the tungsten carbide baseplate, and the integrated titanium bracelet—contribute to its coherence both in form and in philosophy. Eight registered patents underpin this watch, reflecting the scale of innovation required to bring it to life. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is not simply thin—it is complete. A synthesis of precision, geometry, and restraint.


It also marks a moment of reflection—one that looks back on ten world records and more than sixty international awards. This latest chapter in the Octo saga reaffirms the collection’s position as a cornerstone of contemporary watch design. Every refinement, from the sandblasted dial to the bi-material construction, speaks to an uncompromising vision: to distil horology down to its purest form, without sacrificing presence, performance, or poetry.

Serpenti Aeterna
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the Serpenti Aeterna in rose gold captures light, movement, and the quiet strength of simplicity

Since its introduction in 1948, Serpenti has remained a living symbol of transformation—continually evolving, yet always unmistakably Bvlgari. In 2025, under the sign of the snake, the Maison unveils Serpenti Aeterna: a bold distillation of the motif into its most elemental form.


Stripped of ornamentation and reduced to its purest form, the Serpenti Aeterna is sculpted as a fluid bangle—unbroken, uninterrupted, and entirely contemporary. Eyes and scales give way to polished curves and a seamless silhouette. The result is an object of balance and restraint, where each line serves both aesthetic clarity and functional precision.

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A serpentine silhouette cast in white gold and paved with diamonds

Crafted in rose or white gold, and set with brilliant-cut diamonds, Aeterna wraps the wrist with architectural grace. A hidden clasp ensures a fluid profile, while subtle interior detailing—a quiet echo of Serpenti’s past—maintains a tangible link to its origins. On the white gold version, snow-set diamonds extend from dial to tail with an emerald brilliant cut for hour hands, creating a luminous play of depth and texture.


Serpenti Aeterna embodies more than form—it captures a philosophy. It speaks to a vision of design that is both progressive and grounded, abstract yet intimate. Rooted in Roman heritage and realised through contemporary craftsmanship, this latest evolution affirms Serpenti’s status as one of the Maison’s most enduring and expressive creations.

Final Thoughts


With the unveiling of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and Serpenti Aeterna, Bvlgari’s debut at Watches & Wonders is more than a presentation of new forms—it is a declaration of design intent. These two creations speak to a Maison unafraid to pare back, to rethink, and to evolve.


Whether through radical thinness or sculptural clarity, Bvlgari continues to define a horological language that is as exacting as it is expressive. In this dialogue between past and future, between material and meaning, the Roman jeweller-evolved-into-watchmaker affirms its place not only in the present moment, but in what comes next.

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