Collaborations in the world of watchmaking often leads to creations that redefine convention, challenging the boundaries of design and mechanical ingenuity. The latest partnership between Bulgari and MB&F exemplifies this philosophy, blending the heritage of one of the most distinguished jewellery Maisons with the avant-garde approach of a conceptual horological laboratory. Their latest creation, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti, is a dynamic reinterpretation of an emblematic design, where form and function converge in a kinetic sculpture for the wrist.

Bulgari and MB&F first collaborated in 2021 with the LM FlyingT Allegra, a bold expression of MB&F’s mechanical expertise infused with the exuberance of Bulgari’s jewellery craftsmanship. The success of that endeavour sparked the question: What could they create next? Their answer lay in the reinterpretation of one of Bulgari’s most enduring icons—the Serpenti.

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Emerging from Bulgari’s archives in 1948, the Serpenti motif has continuously evolved, transcending generations while remaining a symbol of elegance and transformation. MB&F, known for its kinetic sculptures, approached this revered design with an entirely new perspective. The result is a piece that respects its origins while embracing an unorthodox and daring execution.

Creating the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti was not merely about adapting a historical motif—it was about reimagining it in three dimensions, honouring its sinuous form through uncompromising technical precision. Unlike a traditional round case, the complexity of this design demanded an exhaustive creative process, requiring hundreds of sketches and numerous 3D prototypes. Every angle had to be refined, ensuring that the watch’s sculptural presence remained harmonious from every perspective.

The structural complexity extended beyond aesthetics. The watch’s fluid lines integrate multiple sapphire crystals, including those that form the "eyes" of the serpent, enhancing its depth and character. These transparent elements not only amplify the visual impact but also present a unique challenge in achieving water resistance—a testament to the meticulous engineering behind this creation.

MB&F’s approach to watchmaking has always been rooted in the idea of bringing timekeeping to life. For the Serpenti, this philosophy is captured through its mesmerising movement. The revolving hour and minute domes, inspired by the hypnotic eyes of a serpent, rotate in 12-hour and 60-minute cycles, respectively. Crafted from ultra-light aluminium and adorned with hand-applied luminescent material, these domes ensure that even in darkness, the watch exudes an enigmatic glow.

The beating heart of the timepiece, symbolising the serpent’s instinctive vitality, is its oversized 14 mm flying balance wheel. Suspended by a three-dimensional bridge bearing both brands’ signatures, this exposed mechanical element is a defining feature—one that is as hypnotic as it is technically sophisticated. MB&F's very own in-house manual-winding movement is what powers the watch, a perfect complement to the bespoke flying balance wheel.

While the Serpenti’s form is steeped in its reptilian origins, a closer look reveals another source of inspiration: automotive design. Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s creative director of watchmaking and Maximilian Büsser, MB&F’s founder share a deep passion for automotive aesthetics. This is subtly woven into the watch’s execution, seen in its sculpted case reminiscent of classic sports car bodywork, stepped sapphire crystal evoking aerodynamic vents, and crowns that echo miniature wheels.

Flipping the watch over, a power reserve indicator is revealed, along with some of the 310 components that make up this complex calibre. Every element is hand-finished—a rarity in modern watchmaking and a reflection of the artisanal expertise that MB&F preserves in its movements.

The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is available in three variations with the titanium edition featuring blue domes, while the rose gold variant pairs its warm case tone with vibrant green eyes. A third execution, in black PVD-coated stainless steel, is accentuated with striking red domes. Each version presents a distinct character, yet all share the same technical excellence and visionary execution.

For decades, the Serpenti has been regarded as a symbol of refinement, synonymous with Bulgari’s deep-rooted connection to Italian artistry. With this latest reinterpretation, it enters a new chapter—one defined by mechanical ingenuity and creative audacity. More than a watch, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is a statement of design philosophy, a tangible manifestation of how two seemingly different brands can converge to create something truly unprecedented.

As horology continues to evolve, it is collaborations like this that remind us why the art of watchmaking remains an ever-intriguing realm—where time is not just measured but experienced in its most imaginative form.

Want to discover more about the latest collaboration for the Serpenti? Check out our catalogues for both MB&F and Bulgari to learn more about the artisanal watch maker and the jewellery Maison or drop us a message to enquire further.