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Watches & Wonders 2025: Hublot Reframes the Big Bang
01 Apr 2025 · 14 min read

2025 marks the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang—a design that redefined the visual and material language of contemporary watchmaking. In the two decades since its debut, Hublot has built a reputation around experimentation: fusing unexpected materials, introducing proprietary alloys, and continuously revisiting its core designs through a chromatic and technical lens.


This year, that spirit of innovation is both celebrated and extended. At Watches & Wonders 2025, Hublot presents a series of novelties that reflect the many facets of the Big Bang collection. From the crystalline structure of sapphire to the saturated surfaces of high-tech ceramic, these pieces are a testament to the brand’s ongoing investment in material research. Just as importantly, they speak to the mechanical depth that underpins every release — a throughline that connects aesthetic playfulness with horological rigour.


The novelties span both singular releases and curated sets, each one reinforcing Hublot’s core design values: contrast, clarity, and construction. As always, the pieces are unmistakably bold — yet never without balance. Whether through colour, form, or movement, the Big Bang continues to offer a canvas for reimagining what watchmaking can look and feel like today.

big bang 20th anniversary "Master of Sapphire" set
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A chromatic exploration in five tones of sapphire and SAXEM as each MECA-10 is housed in a fully polished, transparent case

The Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Master of Sapphire” Set is a capsule of five watches that encapsulate the manufacture’s ongoing pursuit of chromatic transparency and advanced material construction. This commemorative set brings together five distinct expressions of the Big Bang MECA-10, each crafted in either polished sapphire or polished SAXEM — a material known for its high transparency and rich colour saturation. The five case variants include Natural White Sapphire, Water Blue Sapphire, Deep Blue Sapphire, Purple Sapphire, and Neon Yellow SAXEM. Each watch is paired with a matching transparent lined silicone strap and complementary accents on the hands and hour markers, resulting in a collection that is as cohesive in its construction as it is striking in its presentation.


Marking the first time the MECA-10 calibre has been cased in sapphire, each piece is powered by the HUB1201 manual-winding skeleton movement, chosen for its linear visual rhythm and architectural clarity. The movement’s minimum 240-hour power reserve is displayed via a rack-and-pinion system and is housed within Hublot’s signature sandwich-style case construction. Components including the polished rhodium-plated balance wheel and black-plated bridges further emphasise the technical and visual contrast within the openworked dial.

Big Bang 20th Anniversary "Materials & High Complications" Unique Set
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This set celebrates Hublot's technical edge in five unique executions, each combining advanced case materials with high complications

In its ongoing 20th anniversary celebrations, Hublot presents the Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Materials and High Complications” Set — a one-of-a-kind quintet that brings together the Manufacture’s most advanced materials with its most ambitious complications. Each of the five watches are unique, exploring the intersection of design, engineering, and sound. Together, they illustrate how Hublot continues to shape the landscape of contemporary watchmaking through non-traditional executions of high complications. From sapphire to red ceramic, frosted carbon to Texalium, the set brings together materials rarely seen in tandem with movements of such architectural complexity.


Among the highlights is a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Sapphire featuring a skeletonised micro-rotor in 22K white gold and a fully transparent case that captures light from every angle. A second piece — the Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Water Blue Sapphire — houses a manual monopusher chronograph tourbillon within Hublot’s latest sapphire colour development. Also included is a Red Magic ceramic model with a smoked sapphire dial and tourbillon movement powered by a black-plated skeletonised micro-rotor. The Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Cathedral Minute Repeater in frosted carbon fibre amplifies sound through lightweight architecture, while the final piece, the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater in Blue Carbon and Texalium, brings acoustic performance to the forefront in an entirely integrated bracelet construction.

Big Bang 20th Anniversary Editions
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A fusion of the original Big Bang and the Unico generation is presented in five distinct materials that includes King Gold, Magic Gold, Red Ceramic, Titanium, and Sapphire

To commemorate 20 years of the Big Bang, Hublot introduces a collection of five special editions that merge the emblematic design codes of the original 2005 model with the mechanical depth of the Big Bang Unico. Each reference features a redesigned 43 mm case that retains key structural elements from the early Big Bangs — including pinched lugs, a knurled bezel edge, and rectangular pushers with rubber inlays — while integrating the column-wheel chronograph architecture and open dial aesthetic of the Unico line. The dial itself bears a stamped carbon-effect motif, inspired by early patterns in the collection, and is fitted with riveted Arabic numerals and indexes now filled with Super-LumiNova. Hublot’s Unico MHUB1280 calibre powers each model, visible through the dial and caseback, and distinguished by a commemorative 22K King Gold rotor engraved with the 20th anniversary emblem.


Each of the five models are defined by a different case material that reflects a pivotal point in Hublot’s material development. These include satin-finished titanium with a polished black ceramic bezel, 18K King Gold paired with ceramic, vivid red polished ceramic with a contrasting caseback, matte and polished black ceramic for a modern reinterpretation of the All Black, and scratch-resistant Magic Gold — Hublot’s proprietary alloy that blends the lustre of gold with the resilience of ceramic. All five references are paired with structured rubber straps featuring a treaded lozenge motif, secured by matching deployant clasps and equipped with the One Click system for tool-free interchangeability. Collectively, the Big Bang 20th Anniversary Editions serve as a reflection on two decades of design and innovation, bridging the foundational identity of the collection with the technical ambitions that continue to shape its future.

Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire
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Powered by the Unico movement, sapphire is rendered in a new tone that is translucent, tropical, and technically complex

Hublot extends its ongoing exploration of synthetic sapphire with the Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire that presents the material in a newly developed tone. The case, bezel, and caseback are machined from polished Water Blue sapphire crystal, a shade inspired by tropical seas and achieved through a proprietary crystallisation process. This process ensures chromatic consistency, clarity, and structural integrity across each component — a challenge amplified by the Big Bang’s complex sandwich construction. Complementing the case is a translucent Water Blue lined rubber strap and polished transparent skeleton dial, where subtle blue accents on the hands and hour markers echo the colour of the case.


At the heart of the watch is the MHUB1280 UNICO calibre — Hublot’s in-house, self-winding flyback chronograph movement. Built around a column wheel and clutching system, the movement comprises 354 components and is engineered for reliability, with a bi-directional winding system and 72-hour power reserve. The bridges and main plate are anthracite ruthenium-plated, while the oscillating weight is finished in circular satin-finished tungsten to enhance the overall visual clarity. Measuring 44 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 50 metres, the Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire is fitted with Hublot’s One Click system for fast strap changes and secured with a titanium deployant buckle clasp. It stands as a clear demonstration of how colour, transparency, and mechanical architecture can be brought into alignment through thoughtful material design.

Big Bang One Click Joyful
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The Big Bang One Click Joyful collection a graphic expression of tone-on-tone design, where gemstone-set bezels meet lacquered dials

Hublot brings a chromatic dimension to its Big Bang One Click Joyful collection — a series of five vibrant references that draw from the brand’s early use of bold colour and gemstone setting. Each piece features a 33 mm polished stainless steel case set with 36 gemstones across the bezel — red spinels, orange sapphires, pink sapphires, blue topaz, or tsavorites — paired with a glossy white lacquered dial and alternating Arabic numerals and indexes. The tone of each gemstone is echoed by a coloured rubber insert within the strap, creating a subtle continuation of the palette across the watch’s layered case construction. A second strap in a deeper shade of the same hue is included with each model and can be easily interchanged using the One Click strap-change system.


Powering the collection is the HUB1120 self-winding movement, offering a 40-hour power reserve and a discreet date window at 3 o’clock. The movement’s oscillating weight is designed in-house, while the polished and microblasted tungsten finish adds a quiet visual counterpoint to the brightness of the dial and bezel. Though unified by size and form, each reference in the One Click Joyful collection has a distinct character — from the saturated warmth of red spinel to the crystalline freshness of blue topaz — making this a compact series rooted in both versatility and visual clarity.

Big Bang Unico & Big Bang One Click Petrol Blue and Mint Green
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Petrol Blue brings layered tonality and calm intensity with a deep, yet subtle take on ceramic
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Soft and sculptural, Mint Green ceramic introduces a new chromatic register to the Big Bang collection

The last introduction to its 20-year anniversary of the Big Bang, Hublot deepens introduces the Petrol Blue and Mint Green ceramic — two new shades developed in-house and applied across the Big Bang Unico 42 mm and Big Bang One Click 33 mm. Both tones offer a fresh take on colour within the context of ceramic, with Petrol Blue sitting at the meeting point of navy and green, and Mint Green taking on a pastel character infused with a hint of cool blue. These tones extend across the cases, dials, and lined rubber straps of their respective models, and are complemented by polished surfaces that reflect the brand’s precision in ceramic finishing.


The Big Bang Unico 42 mm is powered by the HUB1280 calibre — an automatic flyback chronograph movement with a column wheel and a 72-hour power reserve. The skeletonised dial is treated in the same Petrol Blue or Mint Green tones as the ceramic case, revealing the anthracite ruthenium-plated bridges and circular satin-finished tungsten rotor beneath. In contrast, the Big Bang One Click 33 mm models offer a more compact expression, with glossy solid dials in matching ceramic tones and bezels set with 36 diamonds. Each is equipped with the HUB1120 movement and a 40-hour power reserve, with the One Click strap-change mechanism allowing for tool-free versatility. Whether rendered in the subdued depth of Petrol Blue or the softness of Mint Green, these seasonal editions bring renewed emphasis to colour as an integral component of case design.

Final Thoughts


Twenty years on, the Big Bang continues to define Hublot’s creative direction—a collection that’s as much about form as it is about material experimentation. The 2024 novelties reflect this balance: forward in tone and construction, yet grounded in the collection’s original intent. Whether through sapphire, ceramic, or gemstone-set bezels, Hublot continues to chart a course that blends the aesthetic with the technical while always asking what’s next.

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