Patek Philippe World Time in Singapore
The world time function is absolutely my favourite complication in watchmaking. Needless to say, I was thrilled to see such incredible examples of the cosmopolitan complication included in the range of special editions for the 2019 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition in Singapore. Not one, but two world time watches were unveiled to the exhibition attendees who had gathered at Marina Bay Sands and awaited the reveal with bated breath: the Reference 5930G-011 World Time Chronograph and the Reference 5531R World Time Minute Repeater. These timepieces represent two remarkable demonstrations of fine Genevan watchmaking and are cause for great celebration – especially for watch collectors in Asia.
The World Time Chronograph
First debuted at Baselworld in 2016, the Ref. 5930G is a thoroughly contemporary timepiece which combines the world time and chronograph functions. The complication traces its origins back to the Ref. 1414-1, a unique piece manufactured in 1940 for a globally-minded doctor who requested that the world time display be paired with a one-minute chronometer on a pulsometer scale (that watch can now be found in the Patek Philippe Museum). Just over six decade later, Patek Philippe revived the complication and reinterpreted it for a contemporary audience. The result was a watch which I consider as one of the few horological examples which truly captures the spirit of watchmaking today. The model released in 2016 features a striking blue dial – for Singapore, that dial has turned a deep red.
The red-to-black fade of the guilloche dial provides a dramatic setting for the 24-hour ring and the city ring which constitute the world time function – careful observers will note that where one might usually find Beijing on the city ring, Singapore may be found instead. Overall, the local time on the dial is made remarkably legible by the strong, contrasting indexes and the geometric qualities of the hour and minute hands. Angular lugs and sturdy pushers adorn the exterior of the 39.5mm white gold case to exude a dynamic and sporty aesthetic. Inside ticks the automatic Caliber 28-520 HU powered by its swinging 21K gold unidirectional rotor. The black alligator leather strap with red stitching adds a deft touch of tonal coherence to what is a true statement on the wrist.
The World Time Minute Repeater
The Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition and the World Time Minute Repeater complication have a rather interwoven history. It was at the New York exhibition in 2015 that the Ref. 5531R grand complication was debuted – never before had Patek Philippe mechanically coupled the urbane practicality of the world time function with the delightful chimes of the minute repeater. Ten models were released as special editions for New York, five of which depicted the Manhattan skyline in cloisonné enamel by day, and the other five by night. The Ref. 5531R would appear again at Baselworld in 2018, but that time with a cloisonné enamel view of a sailboat on Lake Geneva instead. For the 2019 Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore, the fantastic variation of the Ref. 5531R includes on the dial a map of the city state from above in, of course, the rare Genevan handcraft of cloisonné enamel.
The special edition for Singapore shares many of the exquisite features of the previous variations of the reference. The rose gold case measures at 40.2mm and sits 11.49mm above the wrist – a robust size which befits an exterior than is a true piece of artisanship and artistic toil. Cloisonné enamelling is such a precise and precarious undertaking that between the repeated process of painting it on the workshop desk and firing it in the kiln, the enamelled disk is dangerously prone to ruin even in the hands of the most experienced craftsperson. To achieve the intricate detail required to portray a map of Singapore is simply astounding.
Sharp-edged, gold hour and minute hands effortlessly complement both the brushed finish of the gold 24-hour city ring and the texture of the hand guilloché hobnail pattern around the case band – this watch would suit few straps other than its deep brown alligator leather strap. The interior is equally marvellous with the groundbreaking automatic Caliber R 27 HU making the grand complication the feat of watchmaking prowess that it is. The gold micro rotor and the poised chiming gongs can all be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back, over which is inscribed ‘Patek Phillippe Singapore 2019’ – not that you could ever forget where a watch like this came from.
The 2019 Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition has unveiled some wonderful timepieces from the esteemed Genevan house. Naturally, amongst the finest are the special edition world time watches: the Ref. 5930G-011 and the Ref. 5531R. For an international city like Singapore, these watches just make perfect sense.
