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Watches and Wonders 2025: Zenith Explores Legacy Movements and Modern Materials
01 Apr 2025 · 9 min read

In a landscape where heritage and innovation are often positioned in tension, Zenith demonstrates how the two can coexist in harmony. The brand’s latest releases, unveiled in conjunction with its 160th anniversary, offer more than commemorative milestones — they are thoughtful reflections on the enduring values of precision, craftsmanship, and forward thinking.


The G.F.J. collection revisits one of the Manufacture's most celebrated observatory chronometer movements of the 20th century. Meanwhile, the Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy explores the material and aesthetic versatility of three signature chronograph platforms, each rendered in high-performance ceramic and driven by Zenith’s advanced El Primero movements. Together, these introductions serve as a study in technical evolution and measured design — a demonstration of Zenith’s ongoing contribution to horological advancement.

G.F.J.: A Tribute to Chronometric Mastery
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The G.F.J. pairs a COSC-certified manual movement with a dial combination of lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, and guilloché

To commemorate its 160th anniversary, Zenith revisits one of its most revered achievements in chronometry with the introduction of the G.F.J. — a refined creation named in tribute to the Manufacture’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. At the heart of this timepiece lies the modern rebirth of the Calibre 135, one of the most awarded movements in the history of observatory trials. Reimagined for today while retaining its essential architecture, the calibre underscores Zenith’s enduring pursuit of mechanical precision.


Originally developed during the mid-20th century to compete in chronometric competitions, the Calibre 135 established a benchmark in regulated mechanical performance. In this latest iteration, the movement has been re-engineered to meet modern standards, incorporating a 72-hour power reserve, an oversized balance wheel, and a Breguet overcoil for enhanced stability and precision. With a tolerance of +/- 2 seconds per day, it now bears COSC certification — a contemporary affirmation of its historic reputation.

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The revived Calibre 135 is visible through the sapphire caseback, showcasing a double-arrow regulator, Breguet overcoil, and hand-finished guilloché bridges

Rather than offer a mere reproduction, the G.F.J. presents a fully realised reinterpretation. Its 39 mm platinum case features sculpted, stepped lugs and a dial crafted with extraordinary nuance: lapis lazuli at the centre, mother-of-pearl at the sub-seconds, and a “brick” guilloché outer ring — a nod to the original Manufacture building in Le Locle. The watch’s proportions and finishing express a thoughtful balance between elegance and technical rigour.


This is not a watch designed to impress through spectacle, but one that speaks through its clarity of intent — a modern expression of Zenith’s horological values, distilled into a design that is as discreet as it is resolute. The G.F.J. offers collectors a rare opportunity to engage with a chapter of chronometric history, brought forward with clarity, care, and mechanical conviction.

Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy: Three Movements, One Material Vision


As part of its 160th anniversary tribute, Zenith introduces a trio of ceramic chronographs that brings together the Maison’s most recognisable platforms — the Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback — unified through a newly developed blue ceramic. Rendered in a monochromatic hue that pays homage to the brand’s celestial namesake, this trilogy reflects both material mastery and mechanical continuity.


The colour blue has long served as a visual emblem of Zenith’s identity, signifying the skyward ambition of its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. Yet achieving this particular shade in ceramic required months of experimentation. Unlike coated metals, ceramic is integrally pigmented — meaning its tone and texture run through the entire material. This gives the new blue ceramic a unique chromatic depth and tactile consistency while offering high resistance to wear and corrosion.

Chronomaster Sport
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Powered by the El Primero 3600, the Chronomaster Sport offers a 60-hour power reserve and features a column wheel and horizontal clutch

Reimagined in a vivid blue ceramic case, the Chronomaster Sport continues to showcase Zenith’s mastery of high-frequency chronographs. At its core is the El Primero 3600 calibre — a movement capable of measuring 1/10th of a second, with the central chronograph hand making a full sweep of the dial every 10 seconds. This function is not only technically compelling but visually dynamic, offering a rhythmic sense of motion underpinned by precision.


The watch’s 41 mm case is fitted with pump-style pushers and paired with a blue sunray-finished dial, anchored by the signature overlapping tricolour sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Faceted indices and luminous hands enhance legibility, while the case back reveals an openworked rotor, specially designed for the anniversary series. A ceramic bracelet and additional rubber strap are included, allowing for a seamless transition between settings.

Defy Skyline Chronograph
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The Defy Skyline Chronograph features a quick-change strap system and integrated ceramic bracelet, offering versatility alongside the El Primero 3600

The Defy Skyline Chronograph brings architectural sharpness to the trilogy, housed for the first time in a full blue ceramic case and bracelet. Its angular 42 mm silhouette — a continuation of the Defy lineage launched in 1969 — is enhanced by a starry motif engraved into the sunray dial. This subtle texture reflects Zenith’s iconic four-pointed star and reinforces the collection’s affinity for structured, contemporary design.


Beneath the surface, the El Primero 3600 delivers 1/10th of a second readings with effortless clarity. The chronograph seconds hand completes a full rotation in ten seconds, guided by a fixed chapter ring calibrated for precision. A sapphire display back reveals the movement’s satin-brushed oscillating weight bearing the “160th Anniversary” engraving. For added versatility, a strap-change system allows for tool-free transitions between ceramic and rubber strap options.

Pilot Big Date Flyback
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The Pilot Big Date Flyback is equipped with oversized luminescent Arabic numerals and a corrugated dial for enhanced legibility

Informed by Zenith’s long-standing connection to aviation, the Pilot Big Date Flyback embraces its utilitarian roots while introducing refined technical upgrades. The 41 mm blue ceramic case is micro-blasted for a matte finish and paired with a corrugated dial, large Arabic numerals, and a titanium crown and pushers — features designed for optimal legibility and tactile feedback in dynamic conditions.


Inside, the El Primero 3652 movement integrates both a big date complication and a flyback chronograph. The patented date mechanism executes an instantaneous changeover in just 0.007 seconds, while the flyback function enables quick resetting and restarting of the chronograph — an essential tool for aviation timing. The movement is visible through the sapphire back, and the watch comes equipped with a blue Cordura-effect rubber strap, alongside a secondary white option.

Final Thoughts


For collectors and enthusiasts alike, the G.F.J. and the Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy underscore Zenith’s ongoing mission — not merely to celebrate the past, but to shape the future of watchmaking through reflection, reinvention, and the pursuit of excellence.

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