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Watches & Wonders 2025: Cartier Unveils Five Artful Interpretations
02 Apr 2025 · 11 min read

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Cartier draws from its storied design vocabulary to present a suite of new creations that navigate the interplay between watchmaking, artistry, and expression. These watches are not introduced to dazzle through novelty alone, but to deepen Cartier’s enduring exploration of form, proportion, and gesture.


This year’s releases span archival tributes and bold innovations—each revealing the Maison’s layered approach to design. Whether through the quietly radical display of the Tank à Guichets, the tactile allure of Tressage, or the sculptural dynamism of the Panthère Jewellery Watch, Cartier continues to stretch the boundaries of what a watch can be.

Tank Louis Cartier
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The Tank Louis Cartier returns in a refined rose gold case, now utilising the in-house calibre 1899 MC

The Tank Louis Cartier returns, not as a departure from the past, but as a precise continuation—scaled for today with its proportions subtly amplified. First introduced in 1922, this evolution honours the design refinements made by Louis Cartier himself: softened angles, an elongated case, and the poised geometry that has defined the Tank's identity for over a century.


Now offered in both rose and yellow gold, the enlarged case houses Cartier’s new in-house automatic movement, the 1899 MC. This technical update is thoughtfully integrated, preserving the watch’s silhouette while offering the convenience of self-winding performance.


A flinqué dial lends depth and texture, paired with blued-steel sword-shaped hands and semi-matte alligator straps in tonal shades of brown and grey. Each reference continues the Tank tradition with emblematic details: a railway minute track, Roman numerals, and a beaded crown set with sapphire, ruby, or a diamond, depending on the model.

Tank à Guichets
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The Tank à Guichets in yellow gold pairs green alligator leather with Cartier’s signature aperture-based time display

Cartier Privé continues its annual exploration of heritage design with the return of the Tank à Guichets—one of the Maison’s most quietly radical creations. First introduced in 1928, this singular wristwatch strips away convention: no dial, no hands, only time revealed through two crisp apertures. Hours jump. Minutes glide. The mechanism is poetic in its restraint.


This latest chapter draws from archival references while advancing the idea with refined clarity. Offered in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum, each model is powered by the hand-wound 9755 MC calibre—developed specifically for this complication. The case, satin-brushed at its centre and framed by polished brancards, preserves the graphic purity of the original while introducing contemporary surface textures.

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The platinum Tank à Guichets reimagines digital time display with jumping hours and dragging minutes

Most variants return to the vertical alignment of the 1928 model, with apertures at 12 and 6 o’clock. A fourth version, in platinum with a black strap, reimagines the format entirely: angled windows positioned at 10 and 4 o’clock—a direct reference to the creative spirit of the 1930s.


With its crown discreetly positioned at 12 o’clock, golden-finish discs, and coloured Arabic numerals, the Tank à Guichets remains a study in minimal design with maximal presence. Alligator leather make up the strap in four different shades of black, green, dark grey, and burgundy.

Cartier Tressage
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The Tressage watch wraps the wrist in sculptural contrast—gold, diamonds, and leather interlaced in a tactile rhythm of light and volume

Cartier’s Tressage watch offers more than a way to measure time—it presents a sculptural dialogue between texture, geometry, and movement. Drawing from the Maison’s design vocabulary, the piece follows in the lineage of the Maillon and Coussin watches, combining bold volumes, contrast materials, and a distinctly tactile sensibility.


Two interlaced twists—one smooth and golden, the other pavé-set with diamonds—frame a rectangular dial paved with snow-set stones. The architecture is amplified by elongated brancards, while the strap continues the dynamic contrast of material and finish. Neither bracelet nor cuff, Tressage occupies a space entirely its own.

Each variation speaks in a different tone.


One version, in yellow gold with black lacquer and a glossy strap, evokes pure graphic tension. Another, in white gold, shimmers entirely in snow-set diamonds, while a third incorporates a gradient of sapphires across case and strap, enriching the chromatic interplay. A two-tone model, combining yellow and white gold, introduces softness through beige leather and diamond detailing.

Panthère de Cartier
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An abstract feline pattern animates this interpretation of the Panthère de Cartier, blending pavé diamonds, lacquer, and spessartites in a vivid graphic interplay

In 2025, Cartier continues its exploration of the Panthère motif with a new series of interpretations that blend precision, play, and artistic transformation. The most expressive model embraces a hybrid feline pattern, positioned somewhere between zebra and tiger. Rendered in hand-applied black and golden-brown lacquer and accented with spessartites, the effect is vibrant, layered, and deliberately surreal. Diamonds are snow-set across the dial and woven into the bracelet’s flowing links—314 in total—requiring over 110 hours of artisanal work to complete.


More restrained interpretations focus on the essential form. In yellow and rose gold, semi-paved editions feature a graceful shimmer of brilliant-cut diamonds across case and bracelet. A soft white dial and diamond-set bezel lend lightness and contrast, elevating the collection’s signature profile.


Whether fully adorned or delicately paved, each watch maintains the lithe geometry and intuitive wearability that define the Panthère. Quartz-powered and proportioned with elegance in mind, these new creations affirm the design’s versatility—capable of embodying both spectacle and simplicity.

Panthère Jewellery Watch
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A sculptural composition in white gold, the Panthère Jewellery Watch reveals over 1,100 diamonds and emerald eyes
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23 brilliant-cut diamonds protect the dial while the Panthère is adorned with lacquered spots and tsavorite-set eyes

With the Panthère Jewellery Watch, Cartier presents an object that merges the disciplines of horology and sculpture—where timekeeping becomes secondary to form, detail, and presence. Drawing on the spirit of the Maison’s Toi & Moi creations, the watch introduces a duality: a diamond-framed dial on one side, and a lifelike feline form poised to leap on the other.


This piece embodies Cartier’s deep connection to animal iconography and its mastery of material transformation. The panther, rendered in dimensional precision, reveals polished curves, sculpted paws, and subtle textural contrasts across nose, ears, and pads. In yellow gold, it is adorned with lacquered spots and tsavorite eyes, lending vivid intensity to its gaze. In white gold, the motif is elevated with over 1,100 brilliant-cut diamonds, crafted using Cartier’s distinctive fur-setting technique—a process where precious metal is drawn around the stones to mimic the soft grain of hair.


Every detail in this object reveals Cartier’s pursuit of realism and symbolism. More than adornment, the Panthère Jewellery Watch serves as a talisman—an object of intention, protection, and movement. From the meticulous setting to the interplay of shadow and brilliance, it is a piece that speaks not only of craftsmanship but of character.

Final Thoughts


With these five new expressions, Cartier continues its enduring dialogue with time—not merely in its measurement, but in its meaning. Each piece speaks to a particular sensibility: whether through clarity of line, richness of material, or the emotive presence of form.


Rather than rest on legacy, Cartier chooses to reinterpret it—shaping modern identities from familiar codes. These are not just objects to be worn, but reflections of a worldview where technique, elegance, and imagination coexist in quiet harmony.

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